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A FORK ON THE ROAD

Bahamian dishes fill and fortify at Arline's

IF YOU GO

Place: Arline's Restaurant & Seafood.

Address: 2770 NW 167th St. (Dade Corner Shopping Plaza), Miami Gardens.

Contact: 305-474-8990.

Hours: 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Friday-Saturday.

Prices: Breakfast $3.99-$8.49, seafood dishes $6.75-$26, dinners $6.49-$11.99.

FYI: Boil fish (Saturday only) usually sells out by noon.

lbladholm@MiamiHerald.com

Fill your belly and satisfy your soul with a bowl of ''boil fish'' anchored by planks of grouper in a light broth sparked with lime at Arline's Restaurant and Seafood in Miami Gardens. This family place is owned by Prancetta Washington, a real estate agent who runs it with help from an army of aunts and cousins and on weekends, her husband, Rawn, a longshoreman.

The 4-year-old restaurant is named for Washington's grandmother, Arline Sanford, who moved to Miami from Nassau as a child. She ran several restaurants over the years, and at 77 still cooks but mostly oversees the kitchen and trains family members.

Bahamian food has a strong West African influence via South Carolina's Low Country that makes it unique in the Caribbean. Loyalists left the South with their slaves following the Revolutionary War, bringing with them both Dixie foodways and Gullah, an English-derived creole. The unpretentious food is built on a foundation of fresh seafood with plentiful starchy sides -- just what you'll find at Arline's.

Boil fish, available Saturday mornings, is served with cornbread and grits. Other breakfast dishes include waffles and fried chicken wings, smothered pork chops and country ham with grits. Conch is a must for lunch or an early dinner, served cracked (fried) or dressed (scored bits in a tart vinegar and citrus bath).

One of the most popular items is the seafood combo platter of fried shrimp, conch, fish and fries with lemonade or iced tea.

Dinner means a meal no matter what time it is eaten. Fish dinners are fried or steamed king fish, snapper, catfish or tilapia. Others star a slab of meatloaf in gravy, barbecue chicken in tangy sauce, grilled and smothered steak, turkey wings and dressing (Thursdays) and barbecue ribs (Fridays) -- all with two sides and cornbread.

Pigeon peas and rice, potato salad, mac and cheese, stewed okra and tomatoes and candied yams are almost always available. On Friday and Saturday, collard greens cooked down in pot liquor with smoked pig parts draw regulars who ''sip sip'' (patois for gossip) as they wait for the food.

Other customers come just for the red velvet cake, peach cobbler and sweet potato pie. No one leaves hungry!

Linda Bladholm's latest book is Latin and Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified.

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