Behind every restaurant there is a story. And at the 8-month-old Buena Vista Bistro, it is a simple one. Veteran Chef Claude Postel, who came up through the ranks in his native Paris notching his belt with Michelin stars, moved to Montreal in his 20s, where he opened a series of successful restaurants and ptisseries.

After two decades of toiling in the snow he wanted to escape, to see the coconut trees his guests had described over the years.

He was cooking on Miami Beach's Ocean Drive when he met Callie, who would become his wife. After moving off the beach to a home with a yard big enough for their dog, they decided to open their own spot, a straightforward bistro on the site of the quirky New York import called A.

Their partnership has proven a great success. ''She does everything that I don't like to do,'' the silver-haired chef says with a smile. That includes the books, scheduling and chatting up guests. Which gives him time to concentrate on the kitchen.

The results are enchanting in an offbeat, romantic way. It would be kind to call their space unassuming but more accurate to say austere. The forlorn storefront on a frayed segment of northeast Second Avenue nearly taunts snobby types not to come in. A clutch of motorcycles mark the entrance, while indoors a skateboard or two rest against the door. A tattooed waiter makes the rounds, pleasing regulars who come for the cheap, solid bistro fare.

A well-worn path is etched into the concrete floor to the six tables that line the walls.

Plain black tabletops aren't bothered with cloths or flowers but instead rely on industrial grade salt and pepper shakers and sturdy white hotel ware for a contrasting appeal. The international wine list ($23-$51) is etched in swirly letters onto a wall-size mirror. The only other decorations are black-and-white framed photos of old houses and letters of gratitude to the chef for his fine cooking from his days in Canada. Look for notable names, including Gérard Depardieu and Yves Montand.

The simple menu -- scrawled on a chalkboard above the kitchen pass-through window -- lists no more than two dozen items. A recent night's line-up included scallops, crab cakes, duck pate, escargot Provenc¸al, a couple of salads, lamb chops, roasted salmon, chicken curry, a pair of pastas and a few sides. But pay attention to your server because the daily specials, especially seafood, are usually worth it.

Postel is proud to tell of his shopping ventures each day when he haggles for the freshest fish and produce and spins them into such lovely rustic dishes as tuna in a green peppercorn sauce or simple snapper seared and served with mashed potatoes and spinach.

These past few weeks, the tomatoes have been pasty, which makes for a weak caprese salad but didn't seem to trouble the always good escargot sautéed in garlic and herbs.

A large, delicately dressed salad of mixed greens makes a nice complement to the hearty rilletes du mans, a rustic terrine of pork served with cornichons and Dijon mustard.

Sure bets include a fine meaty rib-eye steak and the luscious duck confit, a tiny half bird served golden and crisped over layers of thinly sliced buttery potatoes still in their skin and cooked until silky.

Potatoes also appear French fried and as a chunky mashed style. Both disappear from plates within minutes. Other sides, like a rough cut ratatouille and gently sautéed spinach, taste like a month in the country.

And for a sweet finish, the few choices are equally endearing. Rice pudding, rich and dense with still chewy bits of white rice, tastes like homecoming, while a creamy chocolate mousse made with Valhrona chocolate bittersweet confection is rich and soothing. Profiteroles stuffed with creamy vanilla ice cream can be transporting -- though one night the pastries were a bit stale.

This is a neighborhood restaurant with modest ambitions and a sweet love story. That it ended up in Miami feels lucky.

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